Here is my entire rig, as well as a few tools that I like in particular:
Bow:
- Riser: Gillo 29” GT weighing about 7 pounds. So, so stable. Why so stable? Inertia. The inertia of an object tells us how resistant that object is to change velocity when a force is applied to it. An object with high inertia that is at rest will be more likely to remain at rest than an object with lower inertia. When you are at full draw, your bow is at rest, and a riser with higher inertia than another requires more force to move it—which means it is more stable. Rotational inertia tells us how resistant an object is to change speed around a given rotational axis. In archery, we are interested in the rotational inertia of the bow around the axis where you grip the riser. Rotational inertia = Mass x Radius squared (I = mr2). The longer the riser, especially in barebow (because in Olympic recurve one can use stabilizers to dramatically increase inertia), the more stable it will be in both the pitch and roll dimensions. The key here is that length has an exponential effect on the rotational inertia of the bow—which in a nutshell means that a long bow at rest is way more likely to stay at rest than a shorter bow of the same mass. Increasing mass has much less of an impact as increasing length.
- Limbs: TradTech Black Max 2.0 Carbon/Wood Recurve Limbs. 40 pound long limbs for indoor (37 pounds on the finger) and 45 pound medium limbs for outdoor (46.5 pounds on the finger).
- Plunger: Beiter Plunger (15/16-24 and 17.5-23 mm)
- Arrow Rest: Spigarelli Zniper Drop Rest
- String (Made myself with a Baker Archery Products string jig, details below).:
- 652 Spectra BCY for main string.
- End loops on main string: .014 Powergrip
- Center serving: .21 Powergrip
- Grip: R-Core ”The Standard” with Pyramidal Anti-Slip Pattern
- Weights:
I should also note that the bow is held in place by a Beiter Multi-Tool.
Arrows:
- Easton A/C/G 610 for Indoor. I can’t provide a link because Easton doesn’t make them anymore. I’ll probably switch to Easton ProComp shafts if I need to in the future.
- Easton ProComp 520 for Outdoor
- Beiter Pin Nock
- 90 grain Easton Stainless Steel 4 mm ML points. I use 90 grain for both indoor and outdoor. I tend to use lower grain tips as much as possible. My theory is that the need for heavier tips (anything above, say, 140 or so) in target archery is a result of an incorrect choice of shaft.
- Spider Vanes. I love these vanes because they are very, very durable. I used XS Wings for a solid year before I switched over, and I’d have to replace vanes all the time because of damage from arrows hitting each other. Since switching over I’ve barely had to replace any. The difference is really amazing.
- Spigarelli Spiga Marker for marking arrow shafts to accept vanes. Well built tool of solid metal.
Finger Tab:
Black Mamba Traditional T-1 Finger tab.
Quiver:
The Push ALPHA Archery Pack in Ranger Green/Coyote Brown combo. I really like this quiver because it can hold a lot of stuff and remain comfortable, including holding a water bottle (a nice to have during the heat of outdoor season). You may notice the copper tube in the picture, which is a lube tube I made out of 3/4” copper pipe, copper end caps that I drilled a hole through, and extra fine Scotchbrite pad. I place a few drops of Super-Lube 100 CST silicone oil in them, swish it around with an arrow, and they work great. If you try to make one the key is to apply a little bit of pressure to the caps (while they are not on the pipe) to make them slightly oval instead of round, and this allows them to stay tightly on the pipe. Here is a close-up picture:
String jig:
Baker Archery Products:
These are all the jig pieces together in a picture, as they came in the box:
Target: American Whitetail 48” Competition Mat
Lighter (mainly for burning off string, such as on nock points): Windproof lighter. I like this a lot because when I’m out on the field and I need a lighter to burn string, for me or someone else, this one works well even in the wind.
